Walpole, New Hampshire, USA

Build Soil

by Ellen Kok

  • Greenhouses on farm.

    Abenaki Springs Farm after a rainy day.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA, July 2022.

Once, about twelve years ago, when he was weeding carrots, American farmer Bruce Bickford found an arrowhead. “The very tip was broken off, but otherwise it was in really nice shape. I was holding something in my hands that somebody formed three to four thousand years ago. There were people here before me. I think about what an amazing spot this must have been. I close my eyes and look at the topography, take out all the development: where the Cold River comes into the Connecticut River, it’s like a paradise out there. They had a spring that was revered, they had everything to be comfortable: water, good soil, and it’s a perfect area for wildlife, any game, obviously great fishing.”

Abenaki Springs Farm, in Walpole, New Hampshire, was started by Bruce in 1997. It is located just above and named for what was once a sacred water supply to the Abenaki, the People of the Dawn Land. They were a farming society that supplemented agriculture with hunting and gathering.

Bruce and his wife Kirsten Anderson grow five acres of certified organic vegetables and berries that they sell through farmers markets, community supported agriculture (CSA) subscriptions, their road side farm stand and online store, a local food hub, and a few restaurants and colleagues’ farm stands. They also raise pastured turkeys, chickens, and pigs that are not certified, but are produced using the same organic standards.

  • Farmers in tomato field.

    Early morning at sunrise, farmer Bruce Bickford explains to farmworker Robin Bigaj where to weed and mulch straw around tomato plants, which will prevent weeds from growing back and moisture from evaporating, and make a smooth bed for the tomatoes. On the pickup truck teenager Faith is waiting. She will be picking blueberries, her summer job.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. July 2022.

  • Female farmer weighs lettuce while carrying baby on her back.

    Farmer Kirsten Anderson weighs and packs lettuce, while carrying her almost one year old son Emmett.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. September 2021.

  • Farmworker picks tomatoes.

    Farmworker Briana Grosodonia harvests cherry tomatoes in one of the greenhouses on Abenaki Springs Farm. Growing vegetables and fruits in the shelter and warmth of a greenhouse extends the growing season. September 2022.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. September 2022.

  • Cherry tomatoes

    Freshly harvested cherry tomatoes and sweet potato plants.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. September 2022.

Chickens find shade under the old roof of a pickup truck.

Broiler chickens kept on pasture find shade under an old pickup truck roof. Abenaki Springs Farm offers its customers a CSA subscription of pasture raised poultry and pork. Farmer Bruce raises the birds from chicks: “They get shipped here through the mail the day they are hatched and usually arrive by the next day.” The little, yellow fluff balls are sent from Cincinnati, Ohio, in cardboard boxes with vent-holes. Bruce: “I try to keep them on pasture as soon as I can. And I start them on organic grain and kelp from day one.” Kelp is a seaweed that is rich in iodine, vitamines and minerals. The manure that the chickens spread improves the soil.

Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. June 2022.

How they came to farming

Neither Bruce nor Kirsten grew up on a farm, but his mother and her grandmother were avid gardeners.

Bruce: “My mother doomed me to this, I swear she did. We had a big garden growing up and I was literally in middle school before I knew you bought produce at stores, we ate and froze and canned everything from it. When I was three or four years old my mother brought me seed catalogues that I just loved looking at, and she let me pick two things every year that I would grow.
”So I picked odd things that my parents didn’t do in the garden. I grew peanuts on the Maine seacoast! Took me two seasons to get it right.
I had a great crop the first year. I hung them in the barn to dry, the squirrels ate them all! The next year, I did it again, I hung them in the backroom of the house and I roasted them in the wood stove, it was absolutely fantastic!
“My father always had very particular ways about how things needed to be in the garden, that was stressful. Once I got old enough and they would go shopping, I would work in the garden when nobody was there. It didn’t always look the way it was supposed to. That was full freedom and I loved that.”

Bruce says he likes everything about farming: “Even the disasters. You always learn something from them. For a while, when I was seventeen, eighteen, nineteen, I worked at a paper mill where my father was an executive. I saw really quickly I wouldn’t have survived that very well. Here, I can work at my own pace, don’t have anybody…” – he smiles mischievous at Kirsten –  “don’t have too many people tell me the way
I should or shouldn’t be doing things.”
They both laugh. “Farming saved me,” Bruce says. "I tried college a few times, I’d go three semesters and then I was out; there were a few very destructive years, too.”
He picked strawberries, worked in an orchard with a lot of chemicals. “One of my jobs was spraying herbicides. One day, a breeze got me and I burnt out a nostril for months, it was like dead, but that came back. didn’t know anything about that stuff at the time, I was just like: herbicide, sure!
“Later, my mother saw this advertisement for a job at an organic farm. I didn’t know what organic was, never heard of it.”
He ended up managing for twelve years one of the oldest and largest certified organic vegetable and fruit farms in the USA: Hutchins Farm in Concord, Massachusetts, before moving to Walpole. It was his organic school.
“It’s where I started reading about everything, especially books from the mid-1800s. And then to see the way we were doing it,
I was completely hooked. But that farm would never be mine.”

“America is a fast food nation,” says Kirsten, “I was definitely addicted to McDonald’s as a teenager. My mom cooked a little bit, a lot of processed and pre-packaged foods. My grandmother cooked from scratch. I grew up watching her garden, sometimes I helped. I always heard stories about her growing up on a farm.
“Coming of age was a difficult time for me, going through lots of stuff with family, all sorts of medications that they tried putting me on, I felt really disconnected from my body and myself and earth. When I started gardening and eating my own food, it totally changed everything. I started to feel so much better. And I really liked being outside, touching the soil."
She studied Human Services and was working with children that had autism, and adults with dementia. “I learned about our food system. It opened my eyes to the realities of diet and health.”
After college, because she enjoyed gardening so much, she decided to go out west to intern on organic farms in California and Washington state. That’s where she learned about community supported agriculture: one of the farms out of Seattle had a 600 members CSA.
When she returned to New Hampshire, for a few years Kirsten ran her own "Dirty Girl" CSA in her hometown of Nashua, where she tried to offer city people a connection to “their food, their land, and their producer” on 2 acres “nestled amongst modern storefronts and congested streets.” 
Reflecting, she says: “I was too eager and wanted to go too fast.
I was leasing land. It was a nice piece, but the soil was very poor quality, it needed a lot of work and I had minimal resources. It was five miles from where I lived, I had to go harvesting and then drive back home to wash and pack. But it was successful for what it was in the few years that I had that.
“Then I met Bruce in 2018. It’s hard to farm alone. It’s really nice to find somebody that has the same values, the same goals.”
They met at the Keene Farmers Market.
Bruce: “I said ‘hi’, she was covering a friend’s stand, I didn’t get much reaction.”
They both laugh remembering.
Kirsten: “I was packing up, I had been vending there during the first market of the year. We became friends. I came to help him weed.”
Bruce: “Somebody who can weed like that, I thought: That’s worth it.”
Kirsten: “They were monster weeds too.”
Bruce, admiringly: “That’s when you find out, at the big jobs.”
From the living room come the sounds of their two-year-old son Emmett playing. Outside, in front of the farmhouse, two-month-old daughter Lillian is sleeping in her buggy while there’s snow on the ground and there's a light frost. But Lily has been bundled up warmly. “She can sleep like this for hours,” her mother says. “It’s wonderful!”

Pigs

Free range pigs dig the soil with their snouts to make a cool place to lie down. Pork is one of the meats the Abenaki Springs Farm's CSA subscription offers. Pig manure contains all 13 essential nutrients required by plants including phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen, which also help improve the quality and texture of soil and add to its arability.

Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. August 2022.

  • Farmer puts tomato seedlings in propagation greenhouse, carries baby on her back.

    Kirsten puts trays with replanted tomato seedlings on a rack in her propagation greenhouse. On her back her six-month-old daughter Lillian.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. May 2023.

  • Boy eats turnip in greenhouse on farm.

    Emmett, the seventeen-month-old son of farmers Kirsten and Bruce, eats a salad turnip his mother has just pulled out of the soil for him in one of the greenhouses.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. May 2022.

  • Farmer sets up produce stand on farmers market.

    Bruce sets up his produce stand for the Saturday Farmers Market in Keene, New Hampshire, half an hours drive from the farm. His wife Kirsten sells their products on the same day on the market in Londonderry in neighboring state Vermont, an hour away. The markets are their biggest source of income, fifty percent of their total sales. They both take pride and joy in building up a nice veggies and fruits display, which also boosts sales.

    New Hampshire , USA. October 2021.

  • Female farmer sells vegetables.

    Farmer Kirsten talks to one of her CSA customers at the farm stand during Wednesday’s pick-up afternoon on Abenaki Springs Farm.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. May 2022.

Teenager waters spinach in greenhouse.

Sarah, 17, daughter of Bruce, waters spinach. She is wearing one of her father's
old T-shirts.

Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. May 2022.

Organic is growing food in healthy soil

On Abenaki Springs Farm, Bruce and Kirsten use crop rotation and compost made on the farm.
They grow cover crops such as winter rye, which can be used as green manure to add nitrogen to the soil and prevent weeds from moving in, or be forage for animals in springtime.
The farmers avoid tilling, which can kick up nutrients out of the soil, and incorporate livestock into their growing operations so their manure can feed the soil. Next to chickens, turkeys and pigs, they recently introduced two Dexter cows to their farm.
Bruce explains: “The reason why many small farms were so productive at one time, and why the government had to break them all down, because you can’t control people that are independent, uh, now I get the politics in there...” He stops his own detour and gets back on track: “...is that they were diversified. Having as closed a system as possible makes a farm more successful." Pleased: “Boy, those cows are producing some great manure! It’s going to be a nice compost pile this spring.”

These practices, which help to maintain soil health, store CO2, and increase biodiversity, are by no means new farming ways. Once considered as old-fashioned, even backward in comparison with highly subsidized, large scale industrial farming, they are now increasingly being touted in the USA as something that can help in the fight against climate change. Research shows that switching from conventional practices to regenerative ones can store a lot of carbon. In the U.S., agriculture accounts for about 10% of the country's greenhouse gas emissions.

A real relationship

CSA is one of the mainstays of Abenaki Springs Farm. Members pay for products up front, which allows farmers to buy seeds, equipment, heat their greenhouse, pay their employees, and start up production. Rather than being connected anonymously through wholesalers and supermarkets, farmers and members share the risks involved in the nature of agriculture: drought, disease, unpredictable weather, early frosts, rodents, crop failure. They also share the joy of fresh, flavorful, nutritious crops. CSA members know where their veggies and meat come from and how they were produced.

For the 2023 season Bruce and Kirsten are again aiming to sell fifty shares. Currently they’re offering three models: boxes with a selection of produce that members can pick up; market style, where they get a credit they can use throughout the season at the farm’s Keene Market stand; and, for the first time this season, free choice farm pick up.
Kirsten: “One day a week we’re going to do a big harvest and people will come and choose what they want. That saves a lot of logistics on our end with packing boxes and dealing with left-overs. We can just put those back in the cooler and re-sell it through another avenue rather than having waste.”
There are downsides to every one of these styles, Bruce clarifies. With boxes, people will neglect to pick them up, or complain there are vegetables in them they don't like. With market style, some people won't show up until October, when they suddenly want to use all their credit. But they added a little more enforcement this year for the market style: shareholders have got to use up a certain amount each month not to lose it.
“Your CSA becomes your most nerve-wracking part because you want to make sure you have stuff for your members, since they paid you the money. You don’t want them to be complaining or upset. And those people that are truly dedicated, I more than appreciate them. It’s a real relationship.”

Dog in pickup truck.

Border Collie Jasper in the pickup truck of farmer Bruce. Jasper always rides along when it's time to harvest the veggies.

Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. October 2021.

  • Farmers in greenhouse with seedlings and squashes.

    Farmers Bruce and Kirsten are having a work meeting in one of their greenhouses. This one is heated and used to grow seedlings and dry recently harvested vegetables, such as squash.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. October 2021.

  • Halloween ghoul

    For Halloween, Kirsten made a farmer who seems to burrow into the ground. She used a pair of Bruce’s worn pants and boots, filled up with straw. Her father made these ghouls and she likes to continue the tradition. The ‘half man’ sits by the road next to the farm stand, for all to be spooked by. “I hope Bruce’s friends will drive by and see it,” she smiles.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. October 2021.

Agriculture: a destructive force or a political act

World-wide, 35 percent of the food is produced by small family farms with a close, personal connection to the land they work on, the animals they work with, and the community they feed. The problem is that their sustainable ways of growing are undercut by Big Ag with its lower prices.
“Agriculture in general is the single most destructive force on this planet and continues to be so for the foreseeable future, unless people start to figure it out,” opines Bruce. “It’s breaking the ground and destroying all the micro-organisms, with the chemicals and the run-offs and the fertilizers. They always say there’s not enough land, but if you do organic, you are building soil and your production goes up over time, versus all the big farms, where it is: more chemicals, production going down.”
Kirsten: “Farming can be so many acts. It can be a political act. It can be rebellious, it can be your own form of activism.”
Bruce: “I hit my mid twenties when I realized that from the very beginning agriculture also started money, it started wealth. All the ills of the planet are connected to agriculture. Everything you look at is because of agriculture: every building, every art. Otherwise we’d still be out hunting and gathering, have our fire at night, eat, sleep, get up and do it again. You wouldn’t have everything else. Once agriculture started, there was a surplus; as soon as you’ve got a surplus, you’ve got money, you’ve got power, greed.
“To go back to what Kirsten said: to stick with this is a political thing, it’s an environmental thing, it’s a hard thing. You never get more challenged, this job will tax your body physically and your mind. If I do this my entire life, I feel pretty good that probably what I did in my lifetime was not destructive, it was beneficial for my family, but also for everybody else, and the earth, the planet. Hopefully this soil is more productive when I’m done. And those kinds of realizations get big and heavy, and when they really settle in, you don’t worry as much about money and other stuff."

  • Turkeys in barn.

    Young turkeys have started to roost. The first few weeks of their lives they are kept in a shed under heat lamps, before they go outside in a pen on pasture. Abenaki Springs Farm offers its local customers a CSA subscription of pasture raised poultry and pork.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. June 2022.

  • Turkeys in cattle truck.

    On the Saturday before Thanksgiving, an important annual holiday in the U.S., for which turkey is a traditional dish, a hundred turkeys are butchered on the farm. Every year family and friends show up to help process the birds and pack them for the CSA customers. Bruce about the tradition: “These guys take it on, they care about what they do, that the birds are done right.”

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. November 2021.

  • Farmers sows winter rye on field.

    Bruce sows winter rye on a field where he grew squash before. He prefers to scatter the seed manually. “I could do it in twenty minutes with a spreader, but this way I feel more connected.” In the spring he will first allow his two Dexter cows to graze the rye and feed the soil with their cow pats. What’s left over of the cover crop will be plowed under and a different vegetable will be grown here. Using cover crops and crop rotation are climate-friendly methods to improve the soil, prevent erosion, and suppress pests on Abenaki Springs Farm.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. October 2021.

  • Farmer disks field.

    After seeding the fields, Bruce covers the seeds by running his disk over the land at high speed, so that the heavy machine doesn’t compact the ground too much. “I like to keep the soil fluffy,” he says. Up to 25 per cent of living soil is air, by volume, and that air is vital for healthy soil.

    Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. October 2021.

Greenhouses in mud and snow on farm.

Mud season normally is at the start of spring on Abenaki Springs Farm, when the frozen ground thaws. “I hate mud season,” says farmer Bruce, “and now, with this weird, mild weather, a lot of rain, wet snow, and hardly any frost, it looks like I get it twice. I can’t do anything outside, the tractor got stuck.”

Walpole, New Hampshire, USA. January 2023.

Photos and text © Ellen Kok. The photo story Build Soil is part one of the project Farming for the Neighbors about two CSA farms in the USA and one in the Netherlands. For more information visit www.netherlight.org/farming-for-the-neighbors.